Pilgrimage

Today, Sue and I are going to The Strand bookstore. It’s a pilgrimage I make every time I’m in the city. I’m fortunate when Sue is here at the same time; she and I can spend a couple hours browsing there, but no one else has the stamina for that.

Mark is going to Ming’s to watch some of the OSU v. Michigan game and will join us down in the Village later. We’re hoping to hit Fish’s Eddy and a store that makes furniture from reclaimed vintage industrial parts.

Tonight, Mark, Rodney, and Carl are going to Evita while I join Michael Meager at Golden Boy.

Stay tuned.

So, it’s now Wednesday. “Where I have I been?” you ask? If not in the loo at JFK, then in bed. On the morning of our return flight, I was attacked—ATTACKED, I say—by intestinal flu. But I get ahead of myself.

The plan for Saturday was that Sue and I would shop at The Strand, then Mark would join us in the village, and we’d hit a funky furniture store (for which I had a coupon!). Sue, not being particularly inclined, would then join Diane and co. to do some other shopping of her own. That was the plan.

Sue and I spent a lovely 90 minutes or so browsing the books. When I picked up a basket to hold the fourteen volumes I’d picked up, I knew it was time to call it a job well done. Many of my choices were culled from one of the lists of “100 books to read before you die.” For those of you who might be interested, I bought:

  • Animal Farm by George Orwell. Surprisingly I didn’t already have a copy!
  • Darkness at Noon by Arthur Koestler
  • Flatland by Edwin A. Abbott. Sheldon on The Big Bang Theory mentions it, and it sounds like an interesting read.
  • Of Love and Other Demons by Gabriel García Márquez
  • Palace Walk by Naguib Mahfouz. I stupidly read part two of this three-part series; this is the first part.
  • Sugar Street by Naguib Mahfouz. This is the third part. Now that I’ve typeset a book on Mahfouz’s work, I’m more interested in him.
  • Small World by David Lodge. A favorite among academics.
  • The Book of Imaginary Beings by Jorge Luis Borges. Borges is a challenge I can rarely rise to, but I love him nonetheless.
  • The Duel by Joseph Conrad
  • The Heart is a Lonely Hunter by Carson McCullers
  • The Night Before Christmas by Nikolai Gogol
  • Three Guineas by Virginia Woolf
  • Three Sea Stories by Joseph Conrad. You have to love Conrad, and as sea stories go, he’s the depth against which all others are measured.

The 14th book is a gift for my nephew, so I won’t list it. (It’s probably a little too advanced for him, though, so I’ll give it to him in a year or two instead.) Sue bought three books. How sad.

We made a pitstop at what must have been the slowest Starbuck’s in the city. This sculpture was in Bryant Park outside the cafe.

I called Mark, and he decided to stay at Ming’s through the end of the OSU-Michigan game (apparently, it was close). Sue had just contacted Diane and arranged to meet her, but when I got dumped, she decided to hang with me even though it meant a stroll through furniture made from discarded industrial products. She’s a trooper that Sue. Her willingness to sacrifice, however, must have earned her some quick karma; the shop was closed for the holiday weekend. Goodbye 25% off.

Instead, Sue and I walked from Lexington and 32nd up 5th Avenue to Central Park at 59th Street then across 59th to 7th and back to the hotel. We shopped and made fun of people and had a really really nice afternoon. We saw these candy shoes and purses in a store window.

We spent about 45 minutes in Tiffany’s. I couldn’t believe that she knew what was on each floor. (As a matter of fact, I didn’t know that the store had six floors!) She was so funny. She kept saying, “They have men’s jewelry, too,” and I kept reassuring her that I didn’t mind browsing with her and wasn’t bored.

Mark and I returned to the Edison at nearly the same time—about 4:00—and just hung out for a bit in the room. He had made plans to join his theater mates for French food at 5. I, however, knew that there was no way that I’d be able to find anything edible in a French restaurant in New York. (I ;believe my exact words were, “If they don’t have French toast, I won’t be eating there.”) Instead, Sue and I decided to get pizza. I haven’t had a slice in NYC for years, but alas, it wasn’t to be this year, either. Diane, Tony, and Tom grabbed us for a quick bite in the Café Edison. (Goodness, what a lot of changes of plans on Saturday!) None of my dinner companions had a show that night, but I hustled off to meet Michael for Golden Boy. Of course, I left the hotel in the wrong direction and didn’t realize it until I was literally three blocks on in exactly the opposite direction.

Despite my geographic challenges, though, I managed to arrive on time at the theater to find that Michael is similarly challenged. He took a subway line that didn’t stop at 49th as he thought it would and ended up several blocks north of the theater—indeed, several blocks north of where I turned back after realizing my mistake.

We had a few minutes to catch up before the show, during which he told me that he’s getting married next month! I was aware that nuptials were pending, but he and Naomi moved the date up because her mother is very ill—likely terminally ill—and they wanted her to be there. I have yet to meet Naomi, but if she loves Michael, she’s got to be a sweetheart (and patient!).

I have to admit that I was kind of dreading this show. I had looked at it online when trying to decide what to see in New York, and I had quickly ruled it out because it’s a boxing play. Despite starring Tony Shalhoub, I couldn’t get excited about it. It was, however, easily the best show I saw during the entire trip and one of the best I’ve seen on Broadway. The cast was flawless, and I couldn’t have been more pleased, which pleased Michael immensely, too.

Michael accompanied me back to the hotel to visit a bit with Mark and the rest of our friends—he knows some of the gang. We capped off our last night in New York laughing and, I’m sure, keeping the people in adjacent rooms awake.

Sunday, I awoke to the drama of severe gastrointestinal distress, so there’s not a lot to say about the trip home except that I am glad (and surprised) I made it. Those of you who know my aversion to public restrooms can get some sense of how sick I was in knowing that I spent more than a hour indisposed at JFK. Thank heaven it was a quiet bog. Although it was somewhat interesting to notice the usage pattern. The place would be empty for 15 or 20 minutes, then it would fill up for a few, then empty out for another interval of private distress.

I spent the next two days recovering (I didn’t get out of bed until 2:30 yesterday), but I’m just about back to normal now. On to planning the next trip!

Posted in New York City, 11/2012 | Comments Off on Pilgrimage

The Day After

November 23, 2012

Despite my best intentions not to overdo it at the Waldorf Astoria yesterday, I ate too much. I haven’t had indigestion like this for ages. I’m blaming the Mexican hot chocolate for most of it, though to be honest, the blueberry muffin I had at 8 last night couldn’t have helped the way I feel this morning. I ate a bagel so I could take my vitamins and then went to Eddie’s deli next door to get a roll of Tums. I’m telling myself that I’ll feel better by the time I meet Jenny for lunch.

Mark and I met Sue for breakfast at the cafe this morning. Our waitress, with her “Cafe Edison” baseball cap [available for $8 each at the register] perched high atop her bun, in the best Russian [?] accent, punctuated each of our orders with “Thank you, baby.” Today will be a good day.

More chat and bad camera-phone pics to come. (I should explain; my good camera was stolen from my car about a month ago, so I’m having to make due with my iPhone 4 camera.)

Jenny and I ended up having burgers and fries at the Brindle Room, a nice little place in the East Village/Alphabet City area. I haven’t seen her since the last time I was in the city, so it was really good to catch up. I’m glad to hear that she’s doing well, moving closer to tenure, and finishing a book and that she and her partner, Bill survived hurricane Sandy relatively intact. When I was here last, they were living in Brooklyn, but they have since moved into Manhattan, and their apartment building is adjacent to the mandatory evacuation zone. The basement and first floor flooded during the storm, and they lost power for a week or two, but they’re mostly back to normal now with only spotty outages to their Internet and phone and hot water.

After lunch, we walked around the East Village for a bit, then stopped for ice cream at Big Gay Ice Cream. We both got a cone called “The Salty Pimp,” which is soft-served vanilla ice cream injected—literally injected—with salty caramel and then dipped into chocolate, which hardens into a shell. It was really really good.

While Jenny and I were visiting, Mark picked up a ticket to Grace, a play starring Paul Rudd and with Ed Asner in a small but important role. We both got back to the room around 3:30 or 4:00 and ended up napping until it was time to gather in Diane and Sue’s room for cocktails.

Diane had suggested going to a nearby Italian place called Pietrasanta, but having had Italian two nights before, I wanted to do something else. I was planning to just meet them after dinner, but because they weren’t married to the idea of Italian, they decided to do something else, too. We schlepped over to a steak house called Broadway Joe’s, but they couldn’t accommodate a party of seven without a reservation. Instead, we went to B. Smith’s across the street. B. Smith’s serves what I would describe as nuovo Southern cuisine. There wasn’t much for me to choose from, but I was thinking it was about time I had a salad, anyway.

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Unfortunately, this restaurant turned out to be our “story” restaurant for the trip. The waiter was very nice, and everyone else’s food was excellent (mine was fine, but what can you say about a grilled chicken Caesar’s salad with no dressing from which the kitchen accidentally omitted the croutons and cheese?), but for whatever reason, it came very late. We had arrived at 6:10, and we did tell the waiter that we had an 8 o’clock show, but we didn’t’ receive our entrees until 7:25. Those of us that ordered prix fixe dinners had to forego their desserts entirely. At least the manager gave us our drinks gratis. We all wolfed down our meals and were out the door by 7:45 and hustling to the theatre.

Our show last night was The Heiress, a play based on the Henry James novel, Washington Square. I had selected it to balance out the musical that everyone had already agreed to see. As I expected, I didn’t love it, but I enjoyed the experience of seeing a drama with no musical numbers. Diane and Tom really liked it, as, I think, did Mark and Tony, so it was a success, and I’m pleased by that.

After the show, we walked to the Carnegie Deli for dessert, and then Mark and I—our dogs barking—called it a night.

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Posted in New York City, 11/2012 | Comments Off on The Day After

Turkeys, Potatoes, and Balloons!

November 22, 2012

Shades of Bangkok—no free wi-fi to be found. I bought the bullet and paid $25 for three days of unlimited access from my iPad so that I could continue to blog. I’ll also use it to find and map things I want to see and to read the NPR site, so I guess it’s okay to splurge.

It’s another lovely day here in the city. The sun is shining, and the noise of the night has died down some. Mark and I had breakfast at the cafe alone. We called Tony and Tom to see if they wanted to go with, but they were still sleeping at 8:30. Mark is watching the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade on TV while I get caught up on my blog and listen to a Train album. I haven’t listened to any music since Tuesday night, so it’s a necessary, calming half hour. After I get cleaned up, I think I’m going to roam a bit. I’m planning to take some pics of the parade, and if that comes to pass, I’ll upload them. [I made it down for a short time, so here are a couple camera phone pics.]

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Our big plans for the day—like just about every other Americans’—center around Thanksgiving dinner. Historically, we’ve dined at the Carlyle Hotel. They’ve always had a very nice buffet in the café, which is a beautiful but also homey room wrapped in a mural by Erté. A number of years ago, a large chain bought the hotel, and the Thanksgiving buffet has been on the decline ever since. (The price, however, continues to rise to unwarranted levels.)

When Diane tried to get us a reservation this year, she had an awful time getting someone to call her back. When she finally was able to speak to someone, she learned that that the hotel was no longer serving the buffet in the Café Carlyle; rather, we’d would be eating in the hotel dining room, which is just like any other boring dining room in any other hotel. Further, said was warned that our large party would have to be split into two or possibly among three tables. And, we would have to be put on a wait list because they were already booked. Those discouraging developments, added to Mark and Matt’s report that the food two years ago was a marked disappointment over previous years (though it rebounded somewhat last year), suggested pretty strongly that it was time to move on.

I did a little research and found that the Waldorf Astoria’s Peacock Alley also offers a Thanksgiving buffet (featuring more than 100 desserts!). The Waldorf’s buffet is less expensive than the Carlyle’s, and the hotel is nearer our hotel (meaning it will be easier to get there during the parade). We decided that the Waldorf couldn’t disappoint us more than the Carlyle has this year, so we decided to give them a try. Diane reported that the reservation hostess was thrilled to welcome us for Thanksgiving (especially since we were dumping the Carlyle), so this year, we hope to start a new tradition.

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Posted in New York City, 11/2012 | Comments Off on Turkeys, Potatoes, and Balloons!

Off to Metropolis

November 21, 2012

Well, after more than a year cooling my jets in Columbus and paying off my 2011 extravagant Asia trip, I’m sitting in the Columbus airport waiting to head to New York City for Thanksgiving. It’s the first trip Mark and I have been on together for more than two years.

As some of you know, a group of our friends travel to the city for Thanksgiving every year, and we join the group every third year. This year, the group is larger than normal; there are 17 of us with a few more who live in the city joining us for dinner on Thursday.

We are seeing The Book of Mormon tonight and The Heiress on Friday night. Mark goes to see Evita on Saturday night while I meet up with an old friend from OSU to see Golden Boy. Other than that, it’ll be drinking and dancing in the streets!

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Just a update to say that we’ve arrived at the Hotel Edison (“the premiere Art Deco hotel in New York City”). Our room is the loveliest we’ve ever had here. We are on an outside corner and have views east and north.

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Ahh the sounds of the city after dark. Sirens. Horns&mdashalways horns. Motorcycles. People talking. It’s hard to believe I can eavesdrop on street conversations 16 stories up. I just discovered that our room window was partially open; closing is has helped a little.

We sawThe Book of Mormon tonight at the Eugene O’Neill Theatre. I didn’t think it was that great, but everyone else seemed to be enjoying it. Just not my kind of humor, I suppose, and that’s fine. I’m glad to have seen it. Don’t ask me to sing any of the songs, though.

The best part of the experience for me, though, was the intermission arrival of Sue. Sue is our friend from Milwaukee who was flying in directly. She was supposed to arrive around 3, but Matt got a text from her at 11:30 saying that her flight was delayed and that she wasn’t expecting to land until 5. A combination of a work strike and fog in Chicago were messing up travel from the Midwest. If she had no further delays, she’d have just enough time to cab it to the hotel, drop her things, and go to the show with us. At 5:30, she called Diane “practically in tears” to say that she was stuck in the Lincoln tunnel and didn’t know when she would be here. Estimates for getting through the tunnel were as high as three hours.

We waited for Sue until 6:30 but then had to go if we were going to make curtain. We left her ticket with a note to join us during intermission and a couple Jolly Ranchers. Then we just fretted about her rotten luck.

At intermission, about half of our group went out to smoke, pee, or call Sue to see where she was. The rest of us milled around at our seats and stretched a bit. I had just turned away from Mark to look around at the crowd, and there was Sue at the aisle below our seats looking up at us and waiving. Of course, my phone service provider being AT&T, I couldn’t get a signal to call Diane to say that Sue was here, so we just waited for her surprise when she came back at the end of intermission. Tony caught Sue up on the plot (a narrative of which the couple in front of us approved. “That was great! I could’ve skipped the first half!” the fellow said appreciatively.” “Indeed,” I thought.

After we all wrapped Sue in the warm blanket of her friends “back east,” the show resumed. It was during the second half that I was, again, reminded how different I am from other Americans. For much of the rest of the show, the crowd, including my group, roared. Gil, seated to my left, rocked back and for in convulsive laughter occasionally stealing knowing looks at Terry, his wife, who was guffawing a few seats to my left. I could clearly hear Tony’s cackle (as, I suppose, could the rest of the theater). I could only smile politely and be bored by the purile humor. Oh well, purile humor is what the shows writers (who also write South Park) are known for.

After the show, the cast did their usual Thanksgiving-time appeal for donations to Broadway Cares/Equity Fights AIDS and hammed it up a bit. (I found those ten minutes to be much funnier.) On to the discussion of a late dinner. It was a short discussion. It was late, and no one felt like wandering around the city to find food, so we opted to go to Sophia’s—the restaurant at Hotel Edison (not to be confused with the cafe, which is their wonderfully dirty spoon)—for some Italian food and some good conversation. We called it a night around 11:30. Sue was in fine spirits; the travels of the day had fallen away from us all.

More tomorrow. Good night.

Posted in New York City, 11/2012 | Comments Off on Off to Metropolis

The Long and Winding Road

September 29-October 1: 37,000 Feet Above the Pacific

We’re heading home.

I didn’t intend to add any more posts, but Tony and Mark predicted that I would have more to say before I got home. They were both prescient. I’m writing this on the plane from Seoul to Chicago. The Pacific is blue beneath us.

We spent our final night in Bhutan at the Nak-Sel Boutique Hotel and Spa. It was easily the nicest place we’d stayed during the entire trip, and so it’s too bad that the night we lopped off our trip had to be our second night there. Still, I think we’re all glad to be heading home. We’re just grateful that we were able to rearrange our flights so that we could make it to Bangkok in time to pick up our original itinerary. Which is not to say that the route from there to here was entirely smooth.

When we got to Phnom Penh, we found the transit desk unmanned. A transit desk is the spot where travelers go when changing airline. It gives them a place to shepherd their baggage onto their next flight without having to reclear security. With no one there to help us, we were kind of stuck. We couldn’t get any further into the airport, and we couldn’t really go back. After a couple minutes of scrambling around, we spotted a security guard and asked him for help. He was able to put us in the hands of an airport agent who could help us.

The agent walked us through security and got us settled in the waiting area. He took our passports and told us to stay put while he got us checked in. A warning bell probably went off in your head as you read that. One certainly went off in mine: Should I be letting some guy I don’t know separate me from my passport? Since neither Tony nor Jan seemed to be worried about it, so I let it be.

Thirty minutes later, the agent still hadn’t returned with our passports, and I was starting to get nervous. An hour later, and still nothing. Now Tony was starting to get nervous. Who knew that Tony shops when he’s nervous? Ninety minutes. Our flight appeared on the departures board, but check-in had not started yet. Jan was trying not to think about it. None of us really believed that the agent would steal our passports, but we were worried that he would get distracted by some other crisis, put our passports in his pocket, and then end up going home without returning them.

It was coming up on two hours since the agent left us, and I decided to try to find him. The area where he’d ensconced us was separated from the transit desk by a glass wall, so I wandered over to see if he would pop out at the desk. I was hoping he would see me and remember that we were waiting. A minute or two after I got up, I heard Tony and Jan talking with someone and looked over to our table. Whew! The agent had finally sent another employee to us with our passports and our boarding passes for Phnom Penh and Seoul. Jan later admitted that if check-in had started before we got our passports back, she would have agreed that we needed to do something.

The flight to Seoul was probably the most uncomfortable of the entire trip. For whatever reason, I started getting claustrophobic and had to really work to keep myself from panicking. Then I started feeling too hot. I slept fitfully and woke with a crick in my neck, and I was glad when we landed in Seoul. As I stepped off the plane and onto the jetway, some instinct made me touch my back pocket, which is when I realized that my wallet was missing. I dug frantically through my carry on and tried to think when I’d last had it. Could someone in Phnom Penh have picked my pocket? Tony urged me to go back to the plane immediately, and when I approached the stewardess and said I’d lost my wallet, she guided me back to my seat. It was there, buried under my pillow and blanket. Apparently, I’d forgotten to button my pants pocket, and while I was tossing and turning in my sleep, it crept out. The stewardesses—two more of whom had gathered—all seemed to be as relieved as I was to find it.

I have to say that I’m really looking forward to getting back home. While this has been an amazing trip, I will be glad to be back on familiar soil among familiar things and familiar people. And I can’t wait to see Mark in person and to feel his hug.

Thanks, everyone, for following along and for your comments. I’ve enjoyed bringing you all along with me, and I hope you’ve enjoyed the ride.

Posted in Cambodia and Bhutan, 09/2011 | 2 Comments

Last Stop, Paro

September 28: The Road to Paro

Five o’clock comes early after a shot of whiskey the night before. Nevertheless, we had to be up a 5:00 today so that could be cleaned up by 5:30, when Tashi and Tanzin arrived to help me don my gho for the day.

We were on the road back to Paro by 6:00. Once again, winding and rough. After an hour of being jostled around, we stopped for breakfast with a view of Bhutan range of the Himalayas.

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A few minutes later, we returned to the Donchula Pass and visited the temple there.

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Another two hours of rough riding,and we were back in Paro and ready for our hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery–a round trip of five hours. The hike was by far the most physically challenging thing I’ve ever done. Having a bad-ish cold didn’t make it any easier. Nor did climbing from an altitude of 2500 meters up to 3000 meters (Columbus’s altitude is around 150 meters). I made it, though, and it was well worth the effort. I’m certainly looking forward to getting to bed, though, as are my feet and knees.

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Posted in Cambodia and Bhutan, 09/2011 | Comments Off on Last Stop, Paro

Is There a Barf Bag on This Bus?

September 27: Punakha

Today, we said goodbye to Thimphu and headed to Punakha. The road crosses the mountains through Donchula Pass, which is marked with a temple and 108 stupas–a memorial to the Bhutanese troops who fought to expel rebels from Assam, India who had illegally set up camps in southwestern Bhutan in 2003. From the pass we could see the Himalayas, though on a clearer day, the view is even more spectacular.

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The road itself is extremely rough and winding. It is far more vomit-inducing than the road that Mark and I took from San José to Manuel Antonio in Costa Rica, but it’s probably not quite as bad as the road to Hana in Hawaii. I was motion sick on the road to Hana, but I got through to Punakha just fine–well I may have a mild case of whiplash.

We passed through the Punakha Valley and into the Wangdi Valley to visit the Wangdiphodrang Fortress, where young men were practicing their performance for the upcoming wedding of the king.

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We had a tasty lunch in town, then hiked 25 minutes to visit the Temple of the Divine Madman. Surrounded by rice paddies and wide open land, the Temple of the Divine Madman is serene and restful. The sun was out all day, so the walk to it really recharged all of our batteries.

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Finally, we headed for Punakha Fortress. On the way there, we were delayed briefly while road crews cleared away a landslide. We were reminded once again that people are people all over the world; a taxi pulled up to the small line of traffic and promptly ditched all of us so he could be first through the reopened road, and all the passengers in the buses behind us piled out to snoop. We arrived at the fortress with no further drama.

The Punakha Fortress is the largest we’ve seen by far. It’s at the convergence of two rivers in an unbelievable pastoral setting. The earthquake in Nepal last week damaged part of the fortress (among other buildings in the country, including the national museum in Paro). You’ll see a partially collapsed stupa among the photos below.

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We checked into our hotel–again, a lovely view–and at dinner, Tashi bought us a bottle of whiskey partly to celebrate my birthday and partly to celebrate the birth of his second child, a daughter, born today at 6:10 p.m.

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Posted in Cambodia and Bhutan, 09/2011 | Comments Off on Is There a Barf Bag on This Bus?

Gho, Dawg, Gho!

September 26: Thimpu

Sorry for the grouchiness in the last post. After 2 liters of water in less than an hour and a full night’s rest, I’m rehydrated and feeling much better. Also, today we resolved our flight dilemma. We’re going to cut a day off of our time in Paro and leave on Thursday. If we don’t get delayed by weather, we’ll have another night in Bangkok and then get back onto our itinerary.

We spent today sightseeing in Thimphu. We visited the queen mother’s stupa in downtown, which she built for her son, the previous king, who died young. We were cautioned not to take any photos inside, which is understandable but regrettable; it was fascinating.

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From the stupa, we took a short drive to see a weaving workroom where I bought a gho. A gho is the formal dress of men in Bhutan. It looks like a bathrobe, but it functions as a business suit and is worn during all but the most informal occasions.

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We then visited a working temple (no photos allowed inside) and an enormous golden Buddha that is still under construction. The Buddha is on a mountainside above city and isn’t going to be finished for around ten years.

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After so much religion, we took a break and visited an animal preserve. They currently have only three kinds of animals in the preserve: barking deer, silent deer, and the national animal, takir.

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The animal preserve was followed by lunch at the Bhutan Kitchen restaurant. I tried butter tea, which I didn’t love but didn’t hate, either. It tasted like salt water with milk in it and some mild spice that I couldn’t put my finger on. Because we finished lunch too early get into our next destination, we popped into a handicrafts store where we all bought singing bowls. Then we visited a school where crafting skills are taught. Students learn woodcarving, drawing, painting, weaving, and other crafts that are important to Bhutanese culture. The school is what we might call a vocational school, and the students are, for the most part, those who failed to pass their high school qualifying exams but wanted still to learn a trade. The city is full of art. Practically every wall has hand-painted details, practically every railing is carved, so I’m sure that there is work to be had by all the school’s graduates.

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Tashi and Tenzin dropped us off for a brief rest because our final destination for the day was to be the Thimphu fortress, which is a functioning administrative office during the day. Visitors are not allowed until 5:30. We saw some beautiful architecture and then spent some time in the monastery, chanting young monks and all. That is until the lights went out, and Tashi had to lead us from the shrine room by the light of his cell phone.

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Posted in Cambodia and Bhutan, 09/2011 | Comments Off on Gho, Dawg, Gho!

It’s All about the Journey. It’s All about the Journey.

September 25: Getting to Bhutan

After a long day and night in Bangkok, I’ve started popping Motrin every few hours to control the pain in my scratchy throat and the canker sore inside my lower lip that refuses to heal. Unfortunately, it’s doing nothing for the headache that this leg of the trip has become.

When we got on the plane this morning, we found out that our flight to Paro included a stop in Bagdogra, a back water town in north east India, to let three passengers disembark. Forty-five minutes later, we were still there. It was raining so hard in Paro that we couldn’t land. After his initial projection of forty-five minutes, the captain said that it now looked like it would be two hours before we would be able to depart. To make matters worse, we would have to wait in the Bagdogra airport. The airport looks almost like something you would see in a war zone. The walls haven’t been painted in ages, and the stucco around doorways and windows is badly chipped. Jan later reported that the ladies loo consisted of a hole in the floor. We were marched through security past women soldiers with AK-47s slung over their shoulders.

My sense is that some authoritative posturing was going on. As we approached security, a flight attendant on our left checked our boarding passes and passports and handed each of us a temporary, additional boarding pass. Then we literally turned to our right and handed our passports and new boarding passes to a soldier who studied our documents importantly and directed us into security where we and our belongings were scanned. Women were escorted into a curtained area for privacy. Why bother with all this fuss? We’d already been screened in Bangkok. I think our captain is Pakistani, and that might explain why were treated wiht such suspicion. Or some airport manager just wanted to beat his chest. In any event, the two-hour projection turned out to be only about one hour, and we were back on the plane and in the air.

All the sources I consulted about Bhutan had the same thing to say about it: it’s widely regarded to be the most frightening airport in the world in which to land. The pilot has to fly very close to the mountains and execute a number of sharp turns and sudden drops in altitude. Now, I was sitting in an aisle seat, so maybe that explains why I didn’t find it particularly scary. Or perhaps out pilot was just that good. I found landing in Vail, Colorado to be much more frightening.

We landed in Paro under now partly sunny skies and were treated to the beautiful sight of the only Bhutanese international airport terminal.

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We met our guide, Tashi, and our driver, Tenzin, who gave us a very brief tour of Paro, took us to an archery match (archery is Bhutan’s national sport), and then took us to a restaurant for lunch. The restaurant was unlike restaurants at home. The dining room was more like a living room in a home, and our lunch was pre-ordered. No menu, no chicken fingers. Tashi did, however, ask us in advance if any of us had food allergies, so I was able to make sure that I wasn’t served onion. Those of you who know my dietary proclivities would be proud of me. I ate everything except the spicy cabbage.

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After lunch, we headed for the capital, Thimpu, stopping along the way to take photos of some breathtaking scenes.

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We ended our day after visiting a local market and then checking into a fantastic hotel with a great view.

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Tony and Jan went on to dinner, but I crashed. I let myself get dehydrated and feel pretty awful. After two big bottles of water and some rest, I’m hoping to feel better tomorrow.

ps. Wi-Fi is spotty in Bhutan, so I may not be able to post regularly.

Posted in Cambodia and Bhutan, 09/2011 | 1 Comment

“Nothing In This City Is Free”

September 24: Bangkok

Up early, quick breakfast of baguette and tea, and off to the airport. We flew from Phnom Penh to Bangkok today. We can enter Bhutan by air only through Bangkok or Kolkata, and when we were planning the trip, we decided that Bangkok sounded like more fun. A complicated flight schedule left us with eighteen hours to kill, so we locked up our bags in Suvarnabhumi Airport and ventured into the city.

We only spent five hours in the Siam Square market area, so perhaps I should take care making generalizations, but Bangkok seems to me to be a truly cosmopolitan city. It’s enormous–perhaps as big as Manhattan, though I have no Internet access as I write to verify this–and much more organized and cleaner than Phnom Penh, which, frankly, was kind of a pit.

Thai drivers drive on the opposite side of the street than we do in the US, so it took me a few minutes to get the lanes sorted out. Fortunately, I wasn’t driving; I probably would have killed us. Traffic got fairly heavy in the downtown area, but we didn’t have to go too far into the lunch-time crowds. The cabbie dropped us just outside of a very swanky entertainment complex, which you can see here.

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Unsure where to go, we stopped at one of the many tourist information booths to ask for directions. The woman in the booth–we’ve dubbed her “Wanda”–was very helpful getting us on our way. Also, posted on her booth windows was a tourist alert warning us to avoid this and that scam. The item that jumped out at us though, was the warning that nothing in this city is free and that if anyone offers us anything for free, we should decline and walk away. Boy were they not kidding! I couldn’t even find free Wi-Fi anywhere, not even in the airport.

We spent the next five hours shopping in this upscale market district, having lunch at the Hard Rock Café (that’s for you, Randy) and hanging in coffee shops. I got my frappucino fix! Yea! I bought a hat for around 8 bucks or 250 bhat–the Thai currency. It’s kind of a bowler/fedora thing. It may show up in some later photos. We haven’t had to deal with currency exchange until now; Cambodians took US dollars. I feel like I’m in high school again trying to do math in my head. Jan bought a great pair of shoes, and Tony bought a shirt. Here are some street shots around Siam Square.

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The day has been a long one, so we came back to the airport on the early side. Tony and I both now have colds, so rest sounded mighty inviting. My plan was to check in with Mark and then take a nap. Unfortunately, that’s when things got complicated. Earlier in the day, I found a router in the airport that would give me fifteen minutes of free Wi-Fi, but now, I couldn’t find it again. While I was looking, Tony and Jan double checked our itinerary and discovered that somehow, we’d crossed signals with the agent who booked the Bhutan portion of our trip. She booked us on a flight back to Bangkok later than the one that we expected to be on, and the later flight arrives too late for us to make our connection to Phnom Penh (which we booked separately based on the earlier flight). Our Bangkok-Phnom Penh carrier has no flights after the one we booked, so they can’t get us back to Phnom Penh in time to make our flight to Seoul. Now we don’t know how we’re going to get home. I’m sure that we’ll figure something out. I’ve e-mail our agent to see if she can move us up to the earlier flight or to a flight on the previous day. We’re waiting to hear back.

Keep your fingers crossed that we can find a way home without adding $1600 to the cost of the trip.

Posted in Cambodia and Bhutan, 09/2011 | Comments Off on “Nothing In This City Is Free”