September 22: Siem Riep to Phnom Penh

I feel like I’m getting behind, so this post will be a choppy two-parter to try to get up to date.

Part 1: The “Road” to Phnom Penh

I’m not sure if the flooding in Cambodia and the surrounding countries has risen to world-news status, but it certainly is major news here. Today, Siem Riep flooded for the second time in two weeks. We awoke to sandbags holding back the water at the entrance to our guesthouse. Yesterday, a group of Japanese tourists were stranded at Bantreay Srei by fast-rising waters and had to be airlifted out in military helicopters. Our bus company was unable to send a collector bus to get us, so we had to take a tuk-tuk to their station. Tuk-tuks sit two largish steps above the road, so about 18 or 20 inches. At one point, the water came up through the floorboards of the tuk-tuk. Here are some photos of the flooded city.

Once we got away from the city, the bus ride was uneventful until about 20 miles out of Phnom Penh. The rutted dirt road that so concerned me on the way to Siem Riep was now a muddy levee separating two massive flooded rice paddies. We came upon an accident blocking the paved lane, and we lost about 45 minutes while drivers traveling in both directions jockeyed for access to the narrow passage through the wrecked vehicles. We watched, horrified, while a bus as large as ours slid through the mud toward the 4-foot drop into the paddie. We were sure we were about to witness the kind of tragedy you hear about on the nightly news and tsp-tsk over. Fortunately, the driver was able to regain control and get back onto the paved lane before losing the bus.

We settled into the Blue Tongue Café and Hotel, then went out for a quick bite. We ended the evening shortly after the old–not older, old–gentleman at the table beside ours welcomed his escorts–not escort, escorts–for the night.

Part 2: Culinary Delights

Several people have asked about the food we’re eating. Not being a foodie, I haven’t really been paying attention beyond wondering if this restaurant will have anything I can eat. Frankly, it’s been tough, but not impossible. (I’ve only eaten four of my sixteen protein bar.) Mostly, I’m eating bread, eggs, and rice. I’ve been disappointed every time I get chicken, because no one seems to understand the word “plain.”

We saw pigs being roasted on the street, though I haven’t eaten pork so far.

Tony and Jan both had A dish called fish amok.

And this is mama’s noodle soup with vegetables.

Somewhere I have a photo of a typical Cambodian breakfast, but I’ll have to upload that later when I’ve located it. KFC is a favorite here, too, though we avoided it.